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西装定制|当代绅士西装指南 Part 1

责任编辑: 碧莉姿劳保鞋   发布时间: 2018-03-02     文章来源: 行业资讯

行业资讯

Dress to Impress

穿着讲究以便给人留下好印象:

Just as a picture is worth a thousand words, so is the image you portray of yourself. Style is a statement, a way of communicating to someone without having to speak. It is therefore imperative the modern gentlemen understands how to dress for the occasion.

一张图片胜过千言万语,你塑造的形象也是。品位是一个声明,一个无需用语言表达的沟通方式。因此,当代绅士在任何场合上都应知道穿着得体是十分重要的。

At the office, for example, whether you are an intern, in middle-management or a high-level executive, how you dress will determine how you are perceived and treated by your co-workers, subordinates and clients. Dress well and you give yourself a head start, dress poorly, and you will lose points right from the get-go.

当你在公司时,无论你是实习生、中层管理者还是高层领导者,你的穿着会一定程度地影响你的同事、下属及客户对你的看法。穿着得体会带给自己一个有优势的开端,反之则亦然。

Below is the first instalment of our Gentleman’s Guide to Suits, an easy-to-follow list of tips that every man should know to look good in a suit. Let’s start with the basics:

我们整理了一系列干货,简单明了地告诉男士们如何拥有一个体面的商务穿着。让我们从最基本的原则开始:

The Fit 合身:

A modern gentleman understands that a suit will ultimately only look as good as the fit. There are generally two choices available to you:

当代绅士懂得,西装得体与否首先取决于是否合身。你通常有两个选择:

Upon comparison it is clear that purchasing a tailored suit is more troublesome, but the end product is a more fitted and personalized suit. However, it is important to remember, a tailored suit is only as good as the tailor who makes it.

相对比后我们发现定做的过程虽然比成衣购买繁琐,但就合身度及个性化而言,优势则高于成品西装。需要注意的是,一个定制合身的西装与工匠制作的手艺息息相关,如果工匠的手艺差强人意,那结果也是徒劳。

Be sure to take our Gentleman’s Guide to Suits with you when you purchase your next suit. You can make an off-the-rack suit fit just as well as a tailored suit, or assist your tailor to create a better product.

继续跟随下文,我们能使你尽可能用成衣西装最大幅度地接近于定制西装的合身程度,或者也可以协助你的工匠更好地打造出一个专属你的产品。

1. SHOULDERS 肩膀

The seam should rest naturally on your shoulder, not pull when you move, and not be too wide.

缝线处应该贴合你的肩膀,活动的时候不应感觉太紧或太松。

2. Jacket Collar 西装外套领子

The collar of your shirt jacket should fit closely just below the shirt collar. It should go across the contour of your back, without being loose, hanging off or standing away.

西装外套的领子应该贴身并置于衬衫的领子之下。它应该贴身你背的弧度,不可太松,也不可下榻。

3. SLEEVE LENGTH 袖子长短

Your jacket sleeves should reach the bumps of your wrist and your shirt sleeves should be a little longer to add about an inch of visibility.

西装的袖子应该停留在你手腕凸起的骨头上,衬衫的袖子应当露出,稍长于西装袖子一英寸左右。

4. TROUSER SEAT 裤裆

Your trouser seat should fit comfortably so that it does not hang or sag, feel too tight or dig.

Tip: Be sure to practice sitting or squatting when trying your suit to ensure a good fit.

裤裆应该感觉舒适,不应太松导致垮下,也不应感觉被勒紧。

友情建议:试穿时一定记得尝试坐下或者蹲下,让每个姿势都能保持合身感。

5. Jacket Length 西装外套长短

Your suit jacket should cover the majority of your zip and your entire behind. This is usually around somewhere between the point your thumb begins, and its knuckle.

西装外套应该几乎盖上你的西裤拉链并完全盖上你的臀部。这条线通常在你双臂自然垂下后,到你大拇指根部和大拇指关节之间。

6. TROUSER BREAK 裤子长短

Though there is a little room for personal preference here, as a general rule of thumb, your trouser leg should end a little above half way up your shoe.

此处根据个人的喜爱可做些调整,但一般的通用法则是,你的裤子应该停留在你鞋后跟的一半处。

The Results 结果:

The difference speaks for itself. Below are a few “before and after” examples of a poorly fitted suit vs. a well-fitted suit.

如上所述,差别不言而喻,大家一定认识到了“合身”对于一套西装的重要性。下面提供了几个不合身vs.合身西装的差别供大家参考。

As you can see, in comparison to an over-sized or over-tight suit, a well-fitted suit makes the wearer look more stylish and professional.

可以看到,合身的西装显然比过大或过小的西装看上去更绅士也更加专业。

Below are some street snaps taken in London, showing examples of gentleman that got it right.

我们还收集了一些欧洲街拍,合身的西装还是穿出自己风格的第一步。

A well-fitted 3-piece suit is the perfect way to portray the unique charm of a modern gentleman; calm, collected, dignified and well-educated.

沉着冷静且富有良好教养的个人风格,合身剪裁的三件套,恰到好处地体现绅士独有的魅力。

Stay tuned for more tips from the Gentleman’s Guide to Suits.

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